What the viral LED face masks actually do to your skin | The Independent

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You may have seen them cropping up in various skincare routines, but the viral LED face masks are becoming more than just a brief beauty trend.

The global LED face mask market is set to grow from £290 million this year to £600 million by 2032, rivalling most mainstream beauty products.

While they look fun, this futuristic bit of kit has sparked controversy over its safety and real effectiveness.

So, is the LED mask set to become a beauty bag staple? Or is should it be reserved for dermatologist’s offices only? Doctors reveal how LED light actually affects your skin, and what you should know before buying a mask.

LED face masks have been on the market for years, but are only recently gaining mainstream traction in the beauty space.

Light-emitting diode (LED) masks work by emitting varying wavelengths of light that treat different skin concerns, depending on the colour of light.

Red light – the most popular – reduces inflammation and promotes blood circulation; while blue light kills acne-causing bacteria. How well the light works is down to its wavelength.

“Wavelengths of 630 nanometres (nm) and 830 nm are clinically proven and trusted to improve overall skin complexion,” explains iSMART‘s global educator, Tracy May-Harriott.

“These wavelengths have been shown in studies to stimulate collagen and elastin production, and to help improve blood flow and tissue oxygenation through a process called ‘photobiomodulation’.”

Photobiomodulation uses light to stimulate living things into healing themselves by inducing cell production. “These effects therefore help skin cells absorb topical skincare products more effectively and help reverse the effects of the ageing process,” says May-Harriott.

LED light has been used in medicine for years to treat numerous inflammatory conditions such as arthritis and other musculoskeletal conditions.

It was only within the past few years that people realised this could be used to lessen signs of ageing. But using LED light on the face is different to using it on the body, and this is due to the eyes.

In 2019, Neutrogena recalled its popular Light Therapy Acne Mask after reports of “theoretical risk of eye injury” were revealed.

“Our decision to recall this product is being made out of an abundance of caution,” read the statement from the brand. “Reports of visual effects associated with [its] use are rare, generally mild, and transient.”

But this has made buyers wary of the mask’s safety – particularly after booming in popularity among teenagers.

“LED masks are generally very safe when used correctly,” says aesthetics and longevity expert Dr Hany Abi Ghosn.

“Devices that are EMA-cleared and medical-grade undergo rigorous clinical testing to ensure safety and efficacy. However, it’s essential to use LED masks as directed.”

Ghosn recommends wearing blackout or opaque eyewear and says overusing the mask doesn’t actually provide any additional benefits and “could lead to unnecessary skin irritation in sensitive individuals.”

While there are risks, many would argue they’re worth the benefits.

“Red and near-infrared light stimulate fibroblast cells, which are responsible for collagen and elastin production,” explains Gohsn.

“Over time, this leads to firmer, smoother skin with fewer fine lines and wrinkles.”

Gohsn says just 10 minutes of LED light therapy can change the appearance of of your skin.

While this is true for in-clinic LED therapy, when it comes to using an at-home mask, it’s all about reading the small print to achieve the same results.

May-Harriott says to “look for masks that can provide clinical data on how they have proven their protocols they suggest.

“But one thing that is very important is consistency – this is key to ongoing treatment protocols. So if three times a week [is more doable] for many weeks, that will be better long term than five times in one week and nothing else all month!”

Like with any miracle-promising beauty product, you should take claims with a pinch of salt.

“Clinical studies suggest that regular use may improve skin elasticity and reduce fine lines, but results are gradual and depend on device quality and consistency of use,” explains dermatologist Dr Anna Andrienko at Dr Ducu Clinics.

“They are not a replacement for professional treatments like laser or micro needling, but they can be a useful addition to an anti-ageing routine.”

LED face masks are expensive, and those that are medical-grade like CurrentBody and LYMA can start from £300, and increase into the thousands.

May-Harriott states you should check the mask’s nanometres (their wavelength) and ensure they are between 630 and 830 nm, as these are the only figures clinically proven to make a difference to the skin’s hydration, wrinkles and firmness.

Another thing to bear in mind before buying an LED mask is whether you have any existing skin conditions. “LED therapy can be beneficial for conditions involving inflammation, like rosacea, thanks to its soothing and reparative properties,” says Ghosn.

“However, for conditions like eczema, it’s important to consult a dermatologist first.”

This is because conditions like Lupus erythematosus, photosensitive eczema or Albinism are hyper-sensitive to light therapy, and so using a mask could cause a severe reaction.

Read more: The best LED masks to invest in – according to a beauty expert